October 16th, 2019
Inevitably, after 35 bedazzling days in India it was time to finally say goodbye, and say hello to Nepal. I enjoyed a traditional Indian breakfast of Aloo Paratha (pan fried potato/wheat flour bread with curd and spicy pickled veggies) for the last time in who knows how long. I thanked the amiable folks who hosted me and helped guide me towards some amazing experiences at Rishikesh’s Indian Culture Hostel. Backpack on, sunblock on, keen awareness on, I strutted off towards a towering riverside temple to kill some time before my night bus to Nepal.
A tuk-tuk brought me from the temple to the Rishikesh bus station, where I took a bus to Dehradun. From Dehradun a night bus would ship me over the border into Mahendranagar, Nepal. Confusedly, Google Maps had labeled the town, “Bhimdatta.” Thus, when asking for directions, nobody had any clue what I was talking about. This was my introduction to Nepal. Even Google is primitive in this country (Unlike India, where it’s relatively accurate and well-developed as far as maps are concerned).
The bus ride was slow, bumpy, and rather uneventful. Oddly, although this was definitely no luxury tourist bus, they had a very large, bright, and painfully loud TV playing Indian music videos almost the entire time. My seat was right underneath a speaker, and I had to keep my earbuds in the whole time for protection from the over-amplified sounds directly above me. It was too loud for me to even be able to hear my own music, so I sat patiently in mild pain for most of the 12 hours required to reach Nepal. At least the music videos were… odd. There was obvious influence from American videos, yet maintained an Indian colourfulness and playfulness. Plus, these were nowhere near as outwardly sexual. It was risque to even show a couple quickly kissing on screen.
Thankfully the person next to me had a child, and around 10 PM they asked for the music to be turned down. It fell silent for 10 minutes, and then music came back on nearly as loud as before. After some time I adjusted, though it still hurt to take my earbuds out. I managed to doze in and out of slumber, until all the sudden I realized…
October 17th, 2019
It was bright out again and many people were getting off the bus. I tried to follow, but the driver told me to stay on. As the bus was inching forward I looked out the window to find all those passengers walking ahead of the bus. We were about to cross an enormous river (the Sarda), which drew the border between the two countries. I was so curious if all those people chose to walk over the border simply because it was a beautiful morning, or if there was some deeper significance behind entering one’s home country by foot. Unfortunately my curiosity remains unsatiated.
Once off the bus in Nepal, I had to pass through 3 different security checkpoints, none of which even searched my bag. It was all just filling out forms and smiling like a naive American tourist so they know I’m not a terrorist. At first I was rather intimidated by the abundance of heavily armed guards dispersed along the first few kilometers of road. But they smiled back at me and I felt a little more secure. Still, I had a strange sense that maybe I was doing something wrong, since I had to walk 15 minutes between checkpoints down an empty, trash-laden road in order to receive my visa. Regardless, 50 US dollars later I got my visa without any issues, plus a wad of some really cool Nepalese Rupees. They had animals like tigers, rhinos, and elephants decorating one side, and Mount Everest on the other.
What I found fascinating is that the largest denomination, the Elephant-backed 1000 Rupees banknote, is only worth 8.3 US Dollars (1 USD = 120.6 Nepalese Rupees). Imagine buying a car with $10 as your biggest bill. This doesn’t even equate to that, which really says something about Nepal’s economy. For even India’s greatest denomination, the 2,000 Indian Rupee, is at least worth about 26.5 US Dollars (1 USD = 76.3 Indian Rupees). That means spending the equivalent of 26 bucks in India is about as big of a deal as spending $100 in the states. But in Nepal, spending roughly 8 dollars is like spending $100. What a completely foreign land I found myself in. And I loved it!
So, with pocket full of animals and a fresh 30-day tourist visa, I was able to continue my journey forth. A rickshaw brought me to the Mahendranagar bus station, where I hopped on a bus towards my first stop in Nepal. It was a relatively short bus ride compared to what I was used to, taking only 7 hours until I hopped of near Thakurdwara, where I would stay for 2 nights. It was a much needed break from the long bus rides required to reach semi-central Nepal, where I had been planning to volunteer for the third time through Workaway. So I saw a big green space called “Bardia National Park” in between the western border and my destination, and went for it.
The rickshaw on the way to my guesthouse literally had to cross through a river (the bridge was under construction), which concerned me that it might breakdown in the middle of the dried-up riverbanks before it reaches the “road” again. Thankfully we plowed right through and he took me to my humble abode: Sunsetview Cafe & Jungle Bar.
For roughly $3/night I had a personal tent to sleep in, which was protected by a natural structure made of dried mud and coconut palms. There was even electricity, a fan, and a lockable chest to store valuables. The guesthouse/cafe had only two other tents, which meant the maximum guest capacity was around 6 people. This wasn’t due to lack of space or resources, rather, the host wanted to give the utmost hospitality to his guests. Two sweet women worked there too, one young woman from France who was his girlfriend, and another young traveler from Romania who was also volunteering through Workaway. The place had a very home-y feel to it, especially since the host still lived with his mother in a building right next to the cafe.
Once settled in, I crawled out of the tent only to notice a large grapefruit-like thing falling from a tree. I picked it up, brought it to the host, and he not only informed me that it was a pomelo (like a sweet grapefruit), he brought out a cutting board and knife so I could eat it right then and there! I talked with him for at least 20 minutes about life in Nepal and how it compares to India. He told me that Nepali people have big hearts. Not that Indians don’t, but unlike India, you’d be hard pressed to find scammers or simply rude people in Nepal.
After he helped me make plans to visit Bardia National Park the next day, I utilized the remaining daylight by going for a leisure bike ride. The bike was free, of course, and offered me a sweet taste of life in the Nepali countryside. Lots of rice farms, cows, chickens, kids playing in the streets, quaint trickling creeks, and burning piles of plant (and plastic?) material. Houses were colourful, some well-maintained and others falling apart, and the streets were less trash-filled than those I was used to in India.
Since I had lost my travel-essentials bag (hand sanitizer, toilet paper, and band-aids) the day before, I figured I’d bike to the village’s nearby “Tigerchowk Market” to restock. The challenge was that there’s no such thing as a CVS or any sort of recognizable corporation in this village. Most of the vendors didn’t even have signs above their storefront. You just look inside and see if they’re carrying the type of stuff your looking for. This made for a fun and engaging hand-sanitizer hunt.
Here’s basically how it went at every shop I stopped at.
Me: “Namaste :)”
Owner: “Namaste :)”
Me: “Do you have hand sanitizer?”
Me: (gesturing how one applies hand sanitizer) “You know, like soap for hands. But NO Water. Just making hands clean.”
Then either 1 of 2 things: 1. A friendly smile and a “no, sorry,” or 2. A “hmmm…” and they hand me baby oil, or lube, or a bar of soap.
This happened LITERALLY at least 10 times as I would zig-zag across the street following the recommendations of shop-owners looking like a very confused tourist in a very non-touristy place. Yet every time I was redirected, I could only laugh more at the fact that most of Nepal is so undeveloped by western standards that they don’t even have hand sanitizer. Hah! I loved it actually. It was so nice to be in a land that capitalism hasn’t completely taken over (yet).
The sun was starting to set, so I rode back, hands unsanitized and now somewhat gooey thanks to the baby oil I accidentally bought and applied. Upon returning I drank an incredibly satisfying Gorkha beer (named after the Nepali soldiers) and finalized plans for the next day with my host. After 3 tuk-tuk rides and 3 bus rides since my last time sleeping in a real bed, I could feel the need for a long, restful slumber. By 9:00 I was in bed, listening to the chorus of insects with a mild breeze occasionally slipping through the tent, and I slept like an exhausted, oily baby.
Next: A stupendous adventure through the Nepali jungle – tracking tigers, elephants, and rhinos with only a blunt stick for defense. If you’d like, hop on my adventure with the “follow” button to be notified of my next blog post 🙂